Auvergne volcanoes: what to see, what to do, where to stay

Eighty dormant volcanoes, crater lakes, black-stone villages and one of Europe's largest nature parks: Auvergne is the ultimate nature destination — and one of the cheapest in France. A practical guide for a first stay.

The UNESCO-listed Chaîne des Puys

Starting from Clermont-Ferrand, the Chaîne des Puys lines up 80 volcanic cones over 45 km. Climb the Puy de Dôme (1,465 m) on foot via the Muleteers' path (45 min) or by rack railway. At the summit: an orientation table, the Gallo-Roman temple of Mercury and a 360° view over the craters. Puy Pariou, with its perfect crater, is the other must-do hike.

The Sancy massif and the lakes

Further south, the Sancy massif peaks at 1,886 m — the roof of the Massif Central. Around it: the spa towns of Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule, Lake Pavin (an almost circular crater with dark waters) and Murol castle. In winter you can ski at gentle prices; in summer the hiking trails are countless.

Cantal and the Planèze of Saint-Flour

Europe's largest volcano (originally 70 km across) occupies the whole Cantal department. The medieval city of Saint-Flour, perched on its basalt outcrop, guards the entrance to the Planèze plateau. On the table: aligot, truffade, Salers beef and AOP cheeses (Cantal, Salers, Saint-Nectaire).

Thiers, the unusual stop

At the gates of the Livradois-Forez park, Thiers, France's cutlery capital, deserves a stop for its medieval centre clinging above the Durolle gorges and its Cutlery Museum.

Where to stay, what budget?

• Auvergne is one of France's cheapest regions: expect €60–90 per night in a quality inn or B&B.
• In the countryside, the La Claie des Champs inn (La Crouzille) or the Auberge de la Planèze near Saint-Flour offer the authentic welcome of Auvergne villages.
• All our addresses are on the Auvergne page.

Volcanic hikes, thermal spas, cheeses and the silence of wide-open spaces: Auvergne ticks every box of the nature trip — without the Alps' crowds or their prices.