Burgundy: the wine route from Dijon to the Morvan villages

From UNESCO-listed vineyard "climats" to the forests of the Morvan, Burgundy is France concentrated: great wines, medieval villages, peaceful canals and generous tables. A 3–4 day itinerary between Dijon and the south of the region.

Dijon and the Grands Crus road

Start with Dijon: the Dukes' palace, the Eiffel-designed market halls, the Cité de la Gastronomie and the mustard houses. Then take the legendary Route des Grands Crus southwards: Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot and its château, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Beaune and its glazed-roof Hospices. Book cellar visits ahead — many estates receive by appointment only.

Autun and the Morvan

Head west to Autun, the ancient "sister of Rome": Roman theatre and gates, and the Saint-Lazare cathedral with its carved tympanum. You are at the gates of the Morvan Regional Nature Park: lakes, deep forests, the Gallo-Roman site of Bibracte and villages where time stands still. For a peaceful gourmet stop, the Auberge Fleurie in Saint-Nizier-sur-Arroux (8.9/10) serves true Burgundian country cooking.

Dole and canal-side Burgundy

To the east, Dole, Pasteur's birthplace, charms with its Tanners' canal and collegiate church. For something different, sleep on the water aboard the Ino Lefkothea II barge, a B&B moored on the Charles Quint canal (10/10).

Practical tips

• When to go: May–June for tender green vines, September–October for the harvest and autumn colours.
• Wine budget: cooperative cellars and small Hautes-Côtes estates offer excellent value, far from stratospheric labels.
• At the table: bœuf bourguignon, œufs en meurette, parsleyed ham, époisses — and gougères with the aperitif.

Vines, Romanesque stones and the art of slow living: Burgundy is to be savoured slowly. Allow plenty of time — everyone comes back.